Eastern Washington

My brother still doesn’t believe in black helicopters, but we’ve seen them for real camping at Wanapum State Park on the Columbia River near Vantage. He slept through the stealthy night maneuvers and even though it’s been years and we’ve since learned there is a military base just over the hill so it’s not so scary mysterious, he still likes to tease us. We stop at Wanapum to swim, but no longer pitch tents there, preferring to camp in our friends orchard where we go every August to pick peaches.

Like Oregon, Washington is dry east of the Cascades and it doesn’t seem like summer until we get hot. Really, really hot. Like Eastern Oregon too, I love this arid landscape sometimes stark and sometimes dramatic and sometimes rolling golden wheat or irrigated lush green with orchards and vineyards. The Missoula or Bretz Floods scoured much of the land, leaving wonderful anomalies like Dry Falls, Soap Lake, rippled scablands and the “other” Columbia River gorge as dramatic as the well-known Oregon-Washington border segment.

[ARCHIVES: Peach Picking & Black Helicopters, The Find and Sunstruck Spokane]

EAT

Walla Walla
Colville Street Patisserie www.colvillestreetpatisserie.com 40 S Colville St, 509.301.7289; Whitehouse-Crawford www.whitehousecrawford.com 55 W Cherry St, fine dining indeed. Fair Warning: Dinners only; reservations recommended 509.525.2222.

Vantage
Blustery’s for burgers, shakes.

Spokane
So many great places, you’ve got to stay for days.

Latah Bistro www.latahbistro.com 4241 S Cheney Spokane Road, 509.838.8338. Not-to-missed inspired Continental/European cuisine with Northwest flair, fresh, organic, local. Fine wines, beer and spirits. Fair Warning: weird location in strip mall beyond town, but worth it; Bistango Martini Lounge www.bistangolounge.com 108 N Post St, 509.624.8464, retro-hip atmosphere, inventive drinks and food, including outstanding real and counterfeit martinis. Live music, go-go dancers sometimes. Fair Warning: Join the crowd; Agave Latin Bistro, a tequila and tapas bar www.agavebistro.com (formerly Blufish) 830 W Sprague, 509.473.9180; Steam Plant Grill www.steamplantgrill.com 159 S Lincoln, 509.777.3900, restaurant within fascinating vintage steam plant, family fare, Coeur d'Alene beer brewed on premises, (try the stout float!); Anthony’s at Spokane Falls, 510 N Lincoln, 509.328.9009, for the view, seafood, good local wines and microbrews; Chicken ‘n More, 414 1/2 W Sprague Ave, 509.838.5071, southern style, chicken, ribs, catfish, baked beans; Downriver Grill www.thedownrivergrill.com 3315 W Northwest Boulevard, 509.323.1600, seasonal specials, great burgers, sandwiches, seafood & steaks, desserts made from scratch. Fine wines and microbrews; Wild Sage American Bistro www.wildsagebistro.com 916 W 2nd Ave, 509.456.7575, creative contemporary cuisine, stellar drinks, happy hour tapas; Moxie www.moxiemoxie.com 816 W Sprague, 509.456.3594, upscale Euro-Asian Cuisine, specialty drinks, desserts; Twigs Bistro & Martini Bar www.twigsbistro.com 808 W Main, 509.232.3376, eclectic upscale cuisine, features 24 different “martinis.” Fair Warning: inside River Park Square mall and another suburban location; Northern Lights Brewing Company 1003 E Trent Spokane, 509-242-2739; Frank’s Diner www.franksdiners.com 1516 W 2nd Ave, 509.747.8798, breakfast hot spot in vintage railroad diner car.

Leavenworth
Kingfisher Dining Lodge, gourmet, NW fresh cafeteria-style dining room with regional beer & wine (ricotta cheese pancakes!); The Grotto — drinks in a woodsy cabin with outdoor patio; O'Grady's cozy coffee café, breakfasts, lunches, pastries or on-the-go snacks — all at Sleeping Lady Mountain Retreat www.sleepinglady.com; Munchen Haus Bavarian Grill & Beer Garden www.munchenhaus.com, 509.548.1158, gotta have brats & beer! — order and pick up your own, summer patio; Pavz www.pavz.net, 866.903.4662, casual family dining, huge crepes a specialty, plus pies.

Wenatchee
Cashmere Cider Mill www.washingtonapplecountry.com, 5420 Woodring Canyon Road, Cashmere, WA 98815, 866.459.9614, tour the cider mill, taste cider varieties, have lunch in their tiny café or at outdoor picnic tables; La Bonne Terre in Château Faire le Pont Winery www.fairelepont.com, 509.667.9463, NW fresh cuisine, cooking classes, bring your dog for Yappy Hour. Really.

Chelan
Blueberry Hills www.wildaboutberries.com, in Manson, 509.687.2379, breakfast extravaganza in stuffed-to-the-gills kitschy collectibles cottage amid blueberry hills, read fun menu comments from cranky owner. Sorrento’s Ristorante at Tsillilan Cellars Winery www.tsillancellars.com, 509.682.5409, fine Italian cuisine & wine in an above-the-lake setting, lawns, fountains, dramatic, gorgeous Italianate Villa; Vogue A Liquid Lounge www.thevoguelounge.com, 509.888.5282, artsy coffee, wine & food downtown.

Stehekin
Stehekin Valley Bakery http://stehekinpastry.com, worth the trip! Good old fashioned home-cookin’- soups, salads, pastries! cozy log cabin atmosphere. Fair Warning: seasonal, check for hours 509.682.7742, limited breakfast & lunch menus, but fab food.

STAY

Walla Walla
Inn at Abeja www.abeja.net 509.522.1234, large suites and cottages amid gardens, fields, vineyards, from $215. Fair Warning: untested, highly recommended by friends I trust.

Marcus Whitman Hotel & Conference Center www.marcuswhitmanhotel.com 866.826.9422. From 1928 to the 1960s the hotel was a destination for Presidents, dignitaries and movie stars. It fell into disrepair for nearly 20 years before being restored to its former glory. The ornate Grand Lobby and Georgian Room bespeak a history of extravagant wealth thanks to ranching and agricultural. Tower Suites feature Italian crafted furnishings, reminiscent of Renaissance opulence. Fair Warning: “Deluxe Rooms” are in the unfortunate motel-like addition detracting from the hotel’s grand style, but the exterior belies the stylish furnishings within. 19 Suites, 53 rooms from $109. The Marc Restaurant on site.

Spokane
The Davenport Hotel and Tower www.thedavenporthotel.com 10 S Post St, 800.899.1482, 1914 opulent Conde Nast Traveler Gold List grand hotel and annex tower — atrium, stained-glass Peacock Lounge, luxurious rooms and suites, pet friendly, pools, restaurants, fitness and business centers, ballrooms. 611 rooms from $189. Stay here if you can. At least visit!

Hotel Lusso www.hotellusso.com One N Post St, 509.747.9750, elegant boutique hotel merged from two renovated historic buildings. Spacious rooms with fourteen-foot ceilings, luxurious modern Italian-style. Cavallino Lounge and 360 Restaurant on site. 48 rooms from $159.

Montvale Hotel www.montvalehotel.com 1005 W 1st Ave, 866.668.8253, 866.668.8253, renovated 1899 building, unique art-filled, cozy lounges as though staying in historic shabby chic private manor. Catacombs Pub and Scratch Restaurant on site. 36 rooms from $89.

Leavenworth
Many motels, hotels, vacation homes, river retreats. Sleeping Lady Mountain Retreat www.sleepinglady.com, no it’s not a women’s retreat or connected to Snow White — Sleeping Lady is the mountain profile behind this 67-acre retreat with wonderful semi-rustic woodsy cabin complexes, (one complex dedicated to dogs & owners), pools, dining facilities on site, the perfect place for skiers, hikers, rock climbers, golfers, rafters or those who want a quiet haven in Leavenworth vicinity, but in the woods away from crowds and not Bavarian themed. Fair Warning: no TVs, must walk paths to cabins. From $99, food packages available; Pension Anna www.pensionanna.com welcome to Bavaria! No kidding — feather beds, beautiful handcrafted antiques and furniture from Austria & Germany, 16 rooms and even a church to accommodate a family – twin beds in the choir loft for me, don’t think I could sleep in the nave, it’s an Alpine haven in downtown Leavenworth, from $135 breakfast included. Run of the River www.runoftheriver.com rustic luxury, recreation packages, birders heaven, hearty breakfasts included from $220. Fair Warning: haven’t visited; highly recommended.

Chelan
Many lakeside resorts and motels. Campbell’s Resort www.campbellsresort.com, looks like one of those huge rambling non-descript resorts, 170 rooms in five buildings, but once inside, fresh chic décor, (check out the B&W photos) and balconies overlooking spectacular Lake Chelan. Pools, beachfront, boat mooring, from $125, Veranda Grill and Pub, The River Room Spa on site; Lake View Hotel www.chelanhotel.com, 13 tasty luxury rooms with soaking tubs and fireplaces, some with balconies & lake views, from $139. Fair Warning: downtown, not directly on waterfront, no children or pets, above BC McDonalds Restaurant and lounge, can be noisy, but handy too!

Stehekin
Fair Warning: Seasonal, remote (50 miles up Lake Chelan from town of Chelan), get there by floatplane Chelan Airways www.chelanairways.com or boat www.ladyofthelake.com (take the Express if you want time to tour) May through October. Bus service at Stehekin from landing to rainbow falls and other sites.

Stehekin Landing Resort at North Cascades National Park www.stehekinlanding.com restaurant, store, fuel, docks, kayak rentals, etc. like most national parks, Spartan accommodations, some kitchen units, a Lake House and rooms with Lake Chelan views, from $82; Silver Bay Inn www.silverbayinn.com cozy waterfront cabins with kitchens and spectacular views of Lake Chelan, cross the lawn and go kayaking! complimentary bikes & canoes. (Bikes take you to Stehekin Bakery or the Landing.) from $195; Stehekin Valley Ranch http://stehekinvalleyranch.com a real get-away-from-it-all up the valley ranch with horses, tent cabins (communal bathrooms & showers), rustic cabins, kitchen cabins, lodge dining packages, hiking, horseback riding, fishing, river rafting, kayaking, biking, from $95. Fair Warning: seasonal June – October, transportation from landing provided.

PLAY

Manhattan Project Reactor B Tour http://manhattanprojectbreactor.hanford.gov Atom bomb site tours at Hanford nuclear facility. Really. Busses leave from Richmond. Fair Warning: must register online at website. Pay attention to restrictions listed on website.

Toppenish “City of Murals” Kraffs, fantastic store full of western gear, Native American products and an amazing array of Pendleton coats, shirts, stacks of blankets and by-the-yard fabric! Home of Yakama Nation Cultural Center.

Leavenworth www.leavenworth.org if the Bavarian-themed town is not your style, visit for a bit, get some good food and head for the hills, rivers or golf courses. There’s amazing hiking, biking, bird-watching, rock climbing and bouldering! Yes, bouldering, where agile young folk scramble up boulders without ropes, acrobatic and silly fun in groups (someone has to break the fall...). For custom cross-country skiing, mountain, rock climbing adventures — John Race and Olivia Cussen at Northwest Mountain School www.mountainschool.com.

Wenatchee area www.wenatchee.org On the lake-like Columbia River, dammed at both ends, but Fair Warning: no place to rent boats!

Recreation + geologic wonders: Dry Falls, pot hole lakes, scablands, Soap Lake www.experiencewa.com At Vantage Wanapum State Park/Ginkgo Petrified Forest State Park www.parks.wa.gov Museum, petroglyphs on cliff face, petrified forest, and nice camping with shaded lawns, swimming/picnic area. Fair Warning: the museum, petrified forest and camp site are a few miles apart. Ice Age Floods self-guided driving tour www.wenatcheevalley.org for downloadable maps. Geologic wonders deposited or scoured from the Missoula/Bretz floods that carved the Columbia River gorges. Yes, gorges plura — the more familiar gorge near Portland and the less well known in eastern Washington. Love this stuff.

Lake Chelan www.lakechelan.com just getting to Stehekin is a fun adventure by floatplane Chelan Airways www.chelanairways.com or Lady of the Lake boats www.ladyofthelake.com (take the Express if you want time to tour) Fair Warning: Seasonal May – October.

Peach Picking: (or buy fresh picked) Verhey’s Peaches in Royal City 509.346.9357. (If you need biodiesel, son Steve Verhey’s biodiesel in Ellensburg.) Orchard group tours www.appleorchardtours.com 866.459.9614

Wine touring: www.columbiariverwine.com and www.visityakima.com and www.okanoganwine.com and www.washingtonwinetours.com and www.lakechelanonline.com (crazy website, but has the info). Best view? Benson Vineyards www.bensonvineyards.com Lake Chelan & vineyard vistas from balcony of tasting room, cheeses, small plates available. Leave the driving — Lakeside Limos www.chelanlimo.com in Chelan will take you touring…

Wineries: Barrister Winerywww.barristerwinery.com fun labels, good reds, “Rough Justice”; Townshend Wine Cellar www.townshendcellar.com; Arbor Crest Wine Cellars www.arborcrest.com beautiful grounds with spectacular river view.

River fun: Canoe, kayak, hike the Little Spokane River Natural Area www.riversidestatepark.org; whitewater or scenic floats ROW www.rowadventurecenter.com and Pangaea River Rafting www.leaveboringbehind.com.

Bike rentals at Riverfront Park or Spoke n Sport; Riverfront Park www.spokaneriverfrontpark.com; Centennial Trail www.spokanecentennialtrail.orgChelan Bicycle Adventures www.chelanbicycleadventures.com will outfit you, take you to location, including an easy downhill, practically coast all the way route through orchards. Fun.

Golf 33 courses www.spokanegolf.org and www.golfnow.com/wenatchee.

Spokane Indians baseball www.spokaneindiansbaseball.com.

Cat Tales Zoological Park www.cattales.org in Spokane.

Historic tours: The Davenport Hotel www.thedavenporthotel.com and Martin Woldson Theater at The Fox www.foxtheaterspokane.com; Bing Crosby Collection at Gonzaga Universit, www.gonzaga.edu; Manito Park designed by Olmstead Brothers, www.manitopark.org.

Art Museums: Jundt Art Museum at Gonzaga University, www.gonzaga.edu; the Smithsonian-Affiliated Northwest Museum of Arts & Culture (MAC) www.northwestmuseum.org.

Auntie’s Bookstore www.auntiesbooks.com

Finders Keepers Shopping, art galleries and entertainment http://experiencespokane.com

Foodie Treats: Saunders Cheese Market artisan cheeses www.saunderscheesemarket.com; Coeur d’Alene Olive Company www.cdaoliveoil.com; The Chocolate Apothecary www.chocolateapothecary.com; Green Bluff Growers www.greenbluffgrowers.com and www.knappsongreenbluff.com. All of the above are in Spokane. Cashmere Cider Mill www.washingtonapplecountry.com cider plant and orchard tours; fine hand-made chocolates, Schocolat, Leavenworth www.schocolat.com.