Winterless Whistler
(A Culinary Tour)
Sunlight breaks through the cloud cover and the muted grays of
water and sky spring to life, startling in sudden color.
We’ve left Lion’s Gate Bridge and the motley mix of condos,
mansions and cottages and speed along the shoreline of Howe
Sound. Islands appear and recede, seabirds and seals frolic
and we watch the passing scenes in comfort, sipping mimosas.
I’m on the Whistler Mountaineer train heading from Vancouver
B.C. to Whistler. In the single-story Glacier Dome, we fellow
travelers are served breakfast on individual linen covered trays,
airline-style, but first, a mimosa toast led by our three cheery
attendants. Breakfast is ho-hum—fruit, fluffy scrambled eggs,
wilted red potatoes and rubbery Canadian bacon, but who cares?
The scenery! Part of our 73.7 mile, three-hour trip has unobstructed
views of the Sunshine Coast across the sound with sea to our
left and sheer basalt cliffs to our right so close we could reach
out and touch the ferns and mosses sprouting on the vertical
rock. After an hour and a half, we verge north into the stunning
Cheakamus Gorge, where waterfalls, eagles and white water river
rapids far below leave us breathless.
The train arrives at Whistler in the early afternoon, so after
checking into my hotel and acquiring local tips on sites and
restaurants from my hotel concierge/bellman, Brady, (who discusses
the joys of local wild huckleberries and mushrooms besides suggesting
places for lunch), I head out to explore this place simply called
“the village.”
Blackcomb and Whistler mountains loom above this world-renowned
ski resort yet began as a summer vacation resort in the 1900s.
The Squamish and Lil'wat First Nations people occupied the area
for thousands of years before Hudson’s Bay surveyors documented
the valley in 1858. The area was dubbed “Whistler” for the local
whistling western hoary marmots. Alex and Myrtle Philips, after
visiting one of the first settlers, fur trapper John Millar,
were so taken with the area and the excellent fishing in the
nearby lakes that they bought a parcel on Alta Lake near Millar.
By 1914 the Philips had constructed Rainbow Lodge, coinciding
with the arrival of the Pacific Great Eastern Railway. Through
the years, cabins and hotels were built, but it wasn’t until
1978 that Whistler Village was constructed.
Whistler without snow doesn’t register to most these days, but
there are lakes and rivers to canoe and kayak, nearly 70 miles
of trails to bike and hike, not counting the amazing Bike Park
with 45 lift-serviced mountain trails from beginner routes to
expert (or foolish) extreme careening-down-the-basalt mountainside
runs. There are gondolas, Ziptrekking lines, eco-canopy tours,
bungee jumping excursions and world-class golf courses like Nicklaus
North or the Arnold Palmer designed Whistler Golf club.
Off-season, hotels have bargains and best of all, many spas and
restaurants have collaborated on Dining in Whistler specials
April through June where you can indulge in three-course bargain
meals. If you’re thinking there can’t be that many exceptional
restaurants in a ski resort, well, get thee hither!
I meander the wide brick passenger-only byways of the Village,
checking out shops (over 200 and over 100 bars and restaurants
in the combined original and Upper Villages). There are kitschy
souvenir shops and a ton of sportswear shops packed with everything
from familiar labels like Columbia, Nike, North Slope, Roots,
etc. to European designers. (A $249CA fleece Prada vest anyone?)
Several stores capture my attention like bookstores, cigar and
chocolate shops, Amos & Andes knitwear, Hatley’s fun animal-inspired
kid clothes and the Path Gallery featuring exquisite Northwest
Coast Salish and First Nations Native artwork.
After getting lost a couple of times, I finally find Beet
Root Café tucked away at a far end of the Village. The funky organic
café is packed with locals. The vegetarian lasagna and burritos
are recommended, but I opt for a curry soup and a Brie-turkey-cranberry
toasted pannini sandwich. This is a favorite local breakfast
and lunch spot as is Gone Bakery whose hearty soups and homemade
breads keep everyone happy.
I am in culinary heaven here with most restaurants offering small
plates, tasting menus and tapas for sampling a wide variety.
It’s exciting, too, to have a variety of Canadian wines that
are not readily available in the states. Ric’s Mix in the center
of the village has heated outdoor dining, perfect for people-watching,
and features inventive tapas and a long list of faux martinis—the
kind with juices and chocolate and other ingredients that should
not be in a martini but that are fun to drink. Breakfast at Elements is a delight with benedicts and honey ham and brie or banana
stuffed French toast, but it’s the frittatas that really appeal.
I forego the asparagus, spinach and Portobello mushroom and the
pancetta, roasted red peppers with goat’s cheese and choose the
Dungeness crab and smoked salmon. I’m sorry I don’t have time
to return for lunch or dinner. Neighboring diners tell me that
I should try the chicken satays and the coconut green curry sautéed
prawns with a nice Penticton (Okanagan) 2004 Pentage chardonnay.
You can indulge in multi-course fine cuisine in Bear
Foot Bistro’s dining room or opt for a more casual atmosphere in the Champagne
Bar where the effervescence of sparkling wines compliment fresh
oysters. Chef Melissa Craig’s acclaimed Asian and French-inspired
repertoire is always a treat and the 125-page wine and champagne
list could keep you busy for days. The new cellar (with private
dining room) now has over 1,500 labels. Araxi, Fifty-Two
80 Bistro and Rim Rock Café, all culinary joys with extensive wine lists,
have joined the spring Dine Whistler specials offering three
and four course meals at bargain prices.
Araxi’s executive chef, James Walt, has captured Vancouver
Magazine’s
Gold Best Whistler restaurant award for the 8th consecutive year.
Taking advantage of fresh northwest ingredients, Walt’s creations
may include Qualicum Beach scallops and fresh asparagus with
arrugula pesto and hazelnut oil and Pemberton all natural beef
slow-roasted strip loin with sautéed fiddleheads and leeks. Keeping
BC wine selections, Araxi Restaurant Director, Steve Edwards,
recommends a Fraser Valley Blackwood Lane 2006 Siegerrebe, a
German varietal cross between Gewürztraminer and Madeleine to
compliment the scallops and with the beef, an opulent, fruit
forward Salt Spring Island Zweigelt red, Garry Oaks' 2004 Zeta.
At the Four Seasons Resort, Fifty-Two
80 Bistro (refers to the
height of Blackcomb mountain at 5,280 feet) executive chef, Scott
Thomas Dolbee creates sophisticated comfort food. “I don’t like
to overcomplicate,” says Dolbee. “Let fresh, natural products
remain distinctive.” Part of the tasting menu with wine suggestions
may include Pacific halibut and calamari “a la plancha,” English
peas and lemon oil roasted eggplant paired with a crisp Okanagan
2006 Mission Hill Pinot blanc, or grilled rack of lamb “provencal”
with artichoke puree and black olive jus paired with a luscious
premium blend of five Bordeaux varietals, Okanagan’s Osoyoos
Larose Le Grand Vin 2004. Dolbee has worked with First Nations
Chef Andrew George to create First Nations-inspired menu items
for the new Squamish Lil’Wat Cultural Centre and new menu items
have been added to Fifty Two 80. Celebrated for fish and game,
Rim Rock Café is worth a drive, taxi (or bike?) ride two miles
out of the Village proper. Cozy and lodge-like (roaring fire
in the fireplace) with an excellent staff and wine list, chef/co-owner,
Rolf Gunter’s culinary expertise shines. Seafood starters offer
a variety of fresh oyster preparations including the decadent
“Rim Rock,” braised with smoked salmon, béchamel sauce & Gruyere
cheese. A second course may include the prawn and papaya salad
with sweet and spicy citrus dressing and wonton bowties. For
meat lovers there’s the Rim Rock Mixed Grill of roasted rack
of lamb, beef tenderloin & caribou.
Alas, it’s time to depart and I haven’t tried other recommended
restaurants for sushi or Italian, especially Trattori
di Umberto with its private outdoor patio. I do, however, have incentive
to board my train: on the afternoon trip back, it’s teatime.
That means lovely Fairmont Hotel catered fresh scones with Devonshire
cream and preserves, cucumber, salmon, watercress and ham and
cream cheese sandwiches (with seconds), dessert cookies and chocolates,
and excellent tea (coffee for spoilsports). And of course, that
spectacular scenic trip back.
Updated 2009 from NW Palate Magazine 2008.
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